I remember having one fitted on my MK4 and yes the wipers were removed and a panel accessed to plug in some wires (5 years ago now), but watching EDDIE_NL do it on my ED30 (For the sake of paying him £90 fitted) it was much easier and he did the work and coded it for me (best £30 spent on labour ever!).
Battery disconnected, Airbag and steering wheel removed, then plug in new stalk, battery re-connected, then steering wheel back on and airbag back on and then coding work done.